Tuesday, January 31, 2012

HDR Photography

High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is a relatively new genre in photography. The idea behind HDR is to capture much more of the information in a picture that what one can achieve with a single frame. Therefore more comparable with what you can see with your eyes. In order to create a HDR image one typically captures 3,5 or 7 images with different exposures in order to have details in most parts of the photograph. Once the images are captured they are blended by using software. Software such as Adobe Photoshop and Photomatix are examples of such programs. A variety of Photoshop plug ins also exist that can be used


If you look at the "correct" exposure photo on the right then you will
Correct exposure
Over Exposed (+1)
notice that although there is detail in most parts, the engine has little detail, there could be more detail under neath and the background is too bright. So in order to rectify this we take two more photos , one that is 1 fstop over exposed and one that is 1 fstop under exposed. That is the next two images. Please bear in mind that the data in each photograph can be represented by four histograms, namely: Highlight and Shadow, Blue, Red and Green (seeing we are working in an RGB or sRGB color space). Therefore if we are able to capture a wider range of information in the highlights mid tones and shadows, we will have more details in these areas.


 And if we are able to capture more shades of Red and more shades of Green and Mores shades of blue we will end up with a photograph that is vivid and punchy in color and it has details in areas where there would normally just be shadows or over exposure. 


Under Exposed (-1)
In order to take these photographs one can use AV mode, TV Mode or Manual mode. In manual mode one would look at the exposure graph in the view finder and literally take a correctly exposed image, adjust the shutter speed to get an exposure that is fstop under exposed and then adjust the shutter speed again to have a 1 fstop over exposed image. One can also use AV/TV mode and adjust the exposure by using the ev (exposure value) setting of the camera. Or the best way is to use bracketing, where the camera adjusts according to the way you have setup the bracketing.


One last point to consider is whether to use AV mode or TV mode. In AV mode you keep the depth of field constant but you vary the shutter speed. However in TV you keep your shutter speed constant but you vary the depth of field. Be careful of this as you may now have a photo with f stop of f4 and another with f16. This might create problems between areas in your photo. I prefer to use AV and vary my shutter speed. Especially when I photograph static objects. So when you photograph something with movement like the sea, what then? Well one option would be to try TV. The other is to use one correctly exposed RAW file and create three JPGs from it that has different exposures. And then to do the HDR blend with these JPGs.

HDR Blended image of the above three exposures





The last comment to make on this post is a warning. Remember that you are blending images, and subsequently my find that images show artefacts of these actions. Look out for anomalies in the final picture as well as halo's. If these exist it is necessary to carefully clean then up afterwards in software such as Adobe Photoshop. Unless it it is the intention be careful that the HDR effect is not pushed to far. As this can spoil the image a take away the realism of the photo.


Recommended reading: The HDR Book - by Rafel "RC" Conception.

by Francois Venter APSSA
venterfa@ibi.co.za

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Tips and tricks for a Project 365

In part 2 of the Project 365 blog, I want to give you some tips on when you want to attempt a project of this nature.
  1. The most important rule or tip is take one (or more) photo everyday. Don't skip a day. It may seem obvious, but this is the biggest challenge. There will be days that life seem to get in the way, but make time for the project.
  2. Take your camera everywhere! Don't feel self conscious. Don't get lazy. Don't take a break. The one time you don't have your camera with you is the one time you'll wish you never left it behind. I can guarantee this. 
  3. Take a picture as early as possible. There is nothing worse than night time arriving and realising that you have not yet taken your picture of the day. 
  4. Never say, "I'll take a photo of that later." or "I'll take a photo of that on my way back." Take the photo while the idea is in your head and the light is right. Moments of inspiration seldom come at convenient times and light conditions are seldom ever exactly the same twice in a day.
  5. When running out of ideas a very good idea is the use of themes. You could have a daily theme such as "Green Sundays"or weekly themes like "Signposts"or even a monthly theme like "The things I love". There is whole list of weekly challenges that you can use at Ramblings and Photos. The possibilities are endless!!
  6. Plan ahead and write down ideas, rather than just waiting for inspiration. This is great practice and will enforce creative thinking. And what is also great is that when spontaneous ideas are few and far between, you can always review previously documented photo ideas.
  7. Break out of your comfort zone and risk a bad shot by learning something new. Taking photos over and over again because you're comfortable taking them will not improve your photography and it won't increase interest in your work.
  8. Anything can be photograph, but only use this as a last resort.
  9. Don't beat yourself up if you miss a day. We sometimes have to accept the fact that we're busy. Just don't quit!!!! 
  10. In order to avoid backlogs edit and process your photos at least weekly if not daily. Getting into a rhythm on editing and post processing is key to completing your project. For many the taking of the photos is the easy part, but editing and processing photos is the challenge. For every photo you publish you're likely to have many others that don't make the cut. Getting into a rhythm to select your final photos and processing them in a timely fashion will make the difference between success and failure.
  11. Post your photos online. Use social media such as Facebook, Flickr or Google Blog. A very good site for posting your work and linking up with other Project Participants is  http://365project.org/ . It is a free site with 1000's of people taking part in projects of this nature. Remember, get your work out there.
  12. When posting your daily photos online add notes as to what you thought worked or didn't from your days photos. Post general photo shoot and camera setting info from your EXIF data, you'll look back on this later to refresh your memory or to see how far you've come. Anecdotal stories are also great information to look back on. Understanding how, why and when you photographed your subject provides insight to your creative thinking that you can't get from just EXIF data.
  13. Link up with other 365'ers. Search the internet to find other people that are attempting the same project as you. This helps when you are loosing steam and want to give up, it may just be the encouragement you need to finish the project. A very good site to keep track of your project as mentioned before is  http://365project.org/.
  14. If you are looking for encouragement from others you need to encourage others. People love to comment on others who have commented on their photos. You can also build some great relationships through just commenting on others work. It doesn't have to be a critique (unless they asked for one) it can be as simple as commenting on something they wrote about. Build relationships!
  15. Lastly, make sure to have fun during your year long photo project. The moment it becomes work the more challenging completing the project will become. Getting into a rhythm can help a great deal in lowering the perceived level of effort to get your daily photos in. Whether you're heading out to explore during your lunch break, taking a 10 minute detour in your commute or even taking 365 self portraits, knowing that you have time dedicated to get your photo in takes a lot stress out of the process. If you're the more spontaneous type then build in an extra 10 - 20 minutes into your appointment schedule to stop and explore with your camera. As with life ones destination is often far less interesting than the journey.
Remember, we are doing this to learn something and to improve in photography. The best part is that you can start ANY day of the year. Don't make the mistake of associating this project with New Years. There is no rule as to when you have to start. SO START TODAY.

Nico Strydom

Friday, January 6, 2012

Why to start a 365 (+1) project!

If your new years resolution was to take better and or more photographs in 2012, a good idea may be to start a 365 (or 52) project. Project 365 is a self challenge to perform a particular task each day, throughout the year. This does not mean that you have to start the project on the 1st of January. Also, there is no need to publish it every day, just take the photo everyday. Participating in Project 365 can be great way to develop your photographic eye and make taking pictures a habit.

Why start a Project 365?

Taking a picture everyday for a year may seem like a difficult task and some days it can be, but when the year is over you'll be able to look back at the pictures you've taken and see your photographic eye slowly starting to develop. When you have to take a picture every day you start looking at the world a bit differently. You'll be more aware of light and shadow. You'll become hyper sensitive to how everyday events van be best captured in a photograph.
Getting out and using your camera everyday will help you feel more comfortable with it. You'll be more likely to use different settings and try a variety of techniques. You'll also feel less awkward taking pictures in public.
The more pictures you take the more you'll recognize what you do and don't like about your pictures. This will make it easier to develop your artistic style.
The more pictures you're processing the easier your work process will become and you will start to streamline your workflow. The simple act of having to edit everyday or once a week will force you to come up with a streamlined way to work.  When photography becomes a second nature to you you're more likely to get the great pictures.
In the next blog I will give you some "rules" and "tips" for starting and maintaining a 365 Project.
To start giving you some inspiration on starting your own 365 Project, here is some examples of projects on Flickr.

Nico Strydom

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

JUDGING PHOTOGRAPHS by Evelyn Gibson

I read an article recently in the Royal Photographic Society of Great Britain’s Magazine and I wanted to rush out and give it to all our judges. I just found it so interesting and I learned a lot from it.

I have taken some of the salient points from it, and I hope by sharing it, it will also be a great learning for many other judges as well as an understanding about judging photographs.

The author of the article was Ken Holland from England and he opens the article by saying “My first entry into a camera club competition was a slide of the Red Arrows in full flight. The judge’s comment was “I’m not really interested in aeroplanes. Next slide please” It was after that I started to take a keen interest in photographic judging”

He has since then been asked to run a series of seminars for new judges. He did a lot of research on it, did some myriad checklists in use by American camera clubs and found almost nothing on the subject had been published. From this his series that he uses for his seminars grew into a book “Looking at Photographs” and it is from this book that the extract on his article was taken.

 

How to judge

When presented with a set of photographs, look at all of them briefly, and perhaps note your initial reaction. Then look again in some detail. Ask yourself basic questions about them: consider the message of each photograph, its technical competence and presentation. We all know that in South Africa the time restraints put on us as judges, this is not always possible.

Also if there is time to compare them, this of course can be done when judging prints but not with projected images unfortunately until of course when it comes to selecting a final winner in each category or overall.

Once you have made your decision, it is as well to stick with it. While it may be tempting to look at the pictures again and change your mind, photography is often (but certainly not always) about initial impact. If this was sufficient for you to decide to award a picture the winning place, it is unlikely that you will change your decision later.

 

What to look for

In general terms, what to look for in a picture is one of the most difficult things for a judge, but it is what lies at the heart of judging. How does a judge compare, say, a good landscape with a good portrait, and decide which is best?

Very simply: any photograph conveys information. A Judge’s job is to decide how well that information has been conveyed. The effectiveness of a photograph depends on the eye of the photographer, and the skill they have employed in its production.

Although a photograph may be technically perfect, it can be quite dull if the subject matter or approach is boring. A judge could look for the sort of photograph which has impact because it is out of the ordinary, and is something that many people would not notice in everyday life.

 

What’s it all about?

A photograph is really about three main things: the subject, its purpose, and its interpretation.

The principal subject of a picture should be clearly defined and draw the viewer in. If it is unclear, or if it is in conflict with other dominant parts of the picture, or if there are several main subjects scattered about the picture, then a picture may lose some of its message. A simple picture is usually more successful than a complicated one.

The purpose of the photograph is all-important. A judge should decide whether the photographer has achieved this purpose. Ultimately, this is where a judge decides on the relative merits of two very different, but possibly very good photographs.

The interpretation of a subject is very personal. The photographer decides on the interpretation by using a variety of methods: lens choice, viewpoint, recording medium, lighting, shutter speed, printing, format and so on.

A judge must decide on whether the interpretation does the subject justice, and enhances the picture. Don’t say how you would have taken the picture: everyone has their own approach.

Each of these three ingredients contributes to a complete photograph. They can be combined in a variety of ways, and it would be impossible to define the optimum balance, as each photograph might require a different approach.

 

Photographic seeing

However when making a decision about the relative success or failure of a photograph, a judge could consider the following aspects and perhaps comment on them when presenting :

Choice of format. Does the particular subject benefit from a landscape or portrait format?

Exposure Although we all have our own thoughts about what looks natural, there is no such thing as “correct” exposure. A photographer may have deliberately gone for an approach that is either dark or light, or high or low in contrast : the judge must try to decide whether it enhances the image.

Placing of the subject within the image Again, there is no correct place, but some are more successful than others. Often, a centrally placed subject place on the “intersection of thirds” seems more acceptable. Don’t expect every photograph to abide by the “rule of thirds”, though, as a judge, you must decide whether the arrangement suits the subject.

Depth of field The area of a photograph that is in sharp focus affects its impact. Some subjects require a great deal to be in focus; others might require just the main subject to be in focus, with the background thrown out of focus to add depth. In general, every photograph needs some part of it to be kept in focus, but there are exceptions to this.

Psychological links and contrasts. This involves the subject, and the use of “photographic seeing” For instance: a clown and a nun picture together would provide an interesting contrast, and inevitably create impact. Two people looking at each other would provide a psychological, but not physical, link.

Visual contrast Again, this will provide impact; perhaps a bright red tractor in a green field, or a smooth glass bowl against rough wood. This is often more difficult to achieve in black and white than in colour.

Eye scan This is the way in which the eye is encouraged to “read” the picture. Is it easy for the viewer?

A whole picture is not necessarily a sum of its parts. Try not to dissect a picture into small pieces. You could apply these thoughts to any photograph: “Why was this image made?” and “What is the photographer trying to show me?” Try to get into the mind of the photographer.

 

Making your comments in public

The way in which you present your comments is vital; you whole approach and attitude can make a tremendous difference, his advice was :

  • Give the appearance that you have enjoyed judging the photographs, it reassures the audience, even those members whose work has not been received too successfully!
  • Be confident in everything that you do. In this way, you will appear to be sure of your decisions.
  • Try not to fall into the trap of describing the picture when the audience can see it for themselves, as this wastes time.
  • Don’t lecture: you will have only a certain amount of time to discuss each picture.
  • Be totally honest. After all, you have been invited to judge these pictures, which applies that your opinion counts for something, and that it is respected. Be bold enough to say what you think: the audience will usually respect you for it.
  • Don’t attempt to say how a picture has been taken; you can often get it wrong, invite an explanation from the photographer later.
  • Try not to let yourself become prejudiced by what you have seen before. Often a judge may comment that they have seen a similar picture, and that somehow it makes the present one seem inferior. Few images are ever truly original, and a successful picture will always be successful, even if it has been done 1000 times before.
  • Remember it is a competition, and therefore the best or strongest image, in your opinion, is the winner! 10 judges given the same task may come up with different winners. All you can do is give your own opinion.
  • Talk about a picture as though you were a “critical friend” of the photographer.
  • Keep an open mind. You may have very strong feelings about many aspects of photography. Judging a competition is not an arena for you to present them in.
  • Above all, speak with modesty and humility.

 

Photographic interpretation

It is extremely difficult to teach photographic interpretation: it can really only be encouraged. As a judge, you will be doing your bit to encourage good photography. Your comments about the technical aspects will be virtually without dispute and are easily explained. Therefore, your comments about technique may be more forthright than comments on subject matter, creativity, and whether you are attracted to the image.

If you cannot appreciate another photographer’s work, don’t assume it is their fault. It just may be that you have missed the point of the photograph, and all judges may be guilty of this.

Keep you words kind and encourage a positive approach, never be scathing or negative. Keep your comments in perspective. You are addressing a friendly camera club, so keep your approach friendly, humorous and lighthearted.

Treat others’ work with respect, photography is something we all enjoy, and to take it too seriously may not be helpful. Keep the emphasis on praise: judging should be evaluative, not critical.

These were the thoughts of Ken Holland ARPS, they are not hard and fast rules. Judging photographs will never be an exact science and that is good. This for me was extremely thought provoking and I learned a lot as a judge. Thank you Ken, I have sent him a message through Facebook and I will buy his book when in the UK in February. Check out www.lowenna.co.uk.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

2011 Bloemfontein Salon resultate

Geluk aan al die lede wat suksesvol deelgeneem het aan die 2011 Bloemfontein Salon.  Hier is ‘n verkorte lys van resultate soos deur ons lede verwerf is.  Die volledige lys resultate, met al die ander deelnemers, kan op die PSSA webblad afgelaai word.

Lede moet asseblief onthou om nog steeds, soos gewoonlik, die resultate in te stuur op die voorgeskrewe formaat vir EMMA, al verskyn die resultate op die lys.  Hierdie resultate lys is slegs van lede wat onder Centurion Camera Club ingeskryf het en lede met dubbele lidmaatskap se uitslae mag moontlik onder die ander klub sew uitslae val.

Result Title Surname Firstname
Acceptance Spoelsand 2 Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Sneeu by Van Reenen Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Klipkoppies Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Sosus in Blom Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Blou Reier net Paddahappie Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Oranje Veldblommetjie Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Uitgelate Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Gebreekte Wynglas Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Nr 42 in Draai Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Vlieende Skieer Coetser Maartin
Acceptance Life in a box Coetzer Riette
Acceptance Vuurvoet de Jager Esta
Acceptance Cartwheels de Jager Esta
Acceptance Eenvoud de Jager Esta
Acceptance BALLITO Dagbreek Du Plooy Bennie
Acceptance Witsieshoek winter Du Plooy Bennie
Acceptance Twin feeding Du Plooy Bennie
Acceptance Odd Leaders Du Plooy Bennie
Certificate of Merit Middel Paaltjie Du Plooy Bennie
Certificate of Merit Rooi Harvard Kotze Francois
Runner-up Bloemfontein Club Medal Glasses in Red Mulder Chris
Certificate of Merit Wynglase deur die kamera se oog Mulder Helouise
Acceptance Beauty and the beast Mulder Helouise
Acceptance Golden Arrow Niemand Cornelia
Acceptance Everything has a place Norris Andre
Acceptance Dry Norris Andre
Acceptance Muslim kids Richard Bernard
Acceptance Colourful Mess Richard Bernard
Acceptance Cobra Parade Richard Bernard
Certificate of Merit Sweet Sweet Wine van Niekerk Michelle
Acceptance Klein Bietjie Wyn van Niekerk Michelle
Acceptance River sunrise Venter Francois
Acceptance Varsity cup Tuks Venter Francois
Acceptance Only in Africa Wilson Charles
Acceptance On the edge Wilson Charles

Inligting oor die volgende salonne is op die webblad kalender aangebring.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Time Lapse Photography–Nico Strydom

I have been interested in time lapse photography for quite some time after seeing it in action on both television shows and on the internet, but I have always been a little hesitant to try it out. After reading a very interesting article about time lapse photography on the internet I decided to finally give it a go.

Time lapse photography is nothing else but to take a bunch of pictures of the same thing over a period of time and then put it all together to create a video that plays back in a shorter period of time.

The first thing I had to do was to purchase an Intervalometer. It is a device that you connect to your camera that triggers the camera to take a certain amount of photos at a set interval. The device can also be used as remote shutter release and is a must have.
Then it was as easy as to follow the 6 basic steps:

Step 1: Choose a subject
I attended a 24 hour mountain bike event over the weekend that requires that you spend the night camping at the event. I knew that I will be awake the whole night and saw it as the perfect opportunity to give time lapse photography a go. What I was looking for, was to capture the sun rise in the morning and to see the rest of the camp site becoming “alive” during the morning. However, I was not so lucky and the weather turned on us over the evening and we woke up to a grey overcast day with no sun in sight. I still wanted to give a bash and I decided to capture the camp activity as the day was starting.

The question that you need to ask yourself is how much time you have to commit to the project. Some time lapse photography subjects need a commitment of days, weeks, months or even years.

Step 2: Figuring it out, in other words, doing the maths
This is all about how many photographs will you require to produce your time lapse movie. It is about the length of time of the event and the length of time of the final product. Most movies show around 20 – 30 frames per second. The more frames per second, the smoother the movie will play back. Now we use the magic formula to determine how many photographs we are going to need and what the spacing of those photographs needs to be.

In my example I knew that I wanted to use 26 frames per second. The event I was photographing really did not have a determined amount of time, so I was not too worried about that. I wanted to create a video that will be about minute long. So, I knew I needed about 60 seconds of photographs and at 26 photographs per second; I had to take in excess of 1500 photographs. Seeing as I was not constrained by time, I decided to take each photo one second apart. Now that I have a plan, I was ready to get to the fun part.

Step 3: Shooting the stills
The secret is to go as manual as possible.

  1. The first thing I did was to set my camera to record medium quality jpeg files. You don’t need to take RAW or large jpeg files as the output will be very small in video format and anything bigger will just consume memory space with no benefit.
  2. Set the camera’s white balance to manual. Auto white balance can change and fluctuate, especially in a changing light environment. Setting it to manual helps to ensure that the photographs keep a reasonably same look.
  3. Set the exposure manually. I did a reading using auto metering and then changed the camera to manual mode and set the aperture and time value manually. I also used the camera’s exposure lock to make sure that the exposure change as little as possible.
  4. Now make sure that the batteries are all fully charged and there is enough room on the memory card. Set the camera on a sturdy tripod and start taking those pictures.

Step 4: Edit the photographs
All that is left is to download the photos to your computer, edit them if you want, and, assemble them into a movie.  I used Adobe Lightroom for my photo editing and it makes batch editing of a large amount of photos so much easier. Maybe the exposure or levels could use some work, or you want to adjust the saturation a bit. Try to automate everything and remember to apply the same edit to all the photos.

Step 5: Start making the movie
Again I used the Lightroom Slideshow module for this step, with the preset that was designed and developed by Sean McCormack. It was as easy as to put all the photographs into a collection and using the 24 frames per second preset to export all the photos as a movie. I also added some music to the show in Lightroom, but I still need to learn to do titles and effects. That will come with time.

Step 6: Upload and share
Finally it is just a case of sharing your creation with the world, either through the internet or on some other media that you prefer.  I can’t wait for my next attempt at time lapse photography and it will be a learning process as I go along.

Follow this link to the video on Facebook.

Nico Strydom